A v a i l a
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Carb Kits
& EFI remapping:
It has always been my goal to get the most performance
from what ever bike that I own. Running "good enough" has never
been good enough for me.
Excessive
vibration irritates me. So does poor 'closed to part throttle' transition
and jerky throttle response
especially when in a corner while leaned over.
Experiencing a lag when the throttle is suddenly snapped open while the
revs are up, can also be frustrating when trying to tune your bike for
best performance, instant response is expected but not always gotten.
The reason that I got into my own products and EFI programming is that
I was tired of always messing around with products that didn't provide
the level of refinement that I am capable of delivering. It had proven
to be too much wasted time and inevitably, customers were not as happy
as they could be.
All of my Carb Kits & EFI tuning programs are thoroughly tested.
By 'thoroughly tested,' I mean:
- Buy
the bike, as opposed to borrowing it.
- This
ensures that there is no limit on the time and R+D that needs to go
into the kit or programming.
- Tune
it on my dyno
- Test
it on the road against another bike, to verify the dyno.
- The
dyno is not the last word, the road is!
- Make
sure it runs as good in cold weather as hot weather
- Make
sure it is smooth, on and off of the throttle
- Modify
whichever carb circuit is causing a problem
- No
circuit is safe from me!
- Do
whatever it takes to make it as best as it can be...
- ...and
offer it in one kit.
- If
there are small changes that need to be made to the needle or an addition
angle ground on to it, I DO IT! Most of my needles have between 4 and
6 different tapers on them!!
- I
do not release a kit or tuning program for sale unless I am completely
satisfied with how it runs at all throttle openings
Most
of my Carb Kits are exhaust design specific.
For example:
Yamaha R1
My carb kit for the R1 is designed for a 4-1 designed exhaust for that
model, not 4-2-1. The 4-2-1 design causes very strong resonance on that
model. This in turn causes very poor operation in the 3-4000 rpm range,
right where you spend the most time during normal street riding conditions.
There is no way to use the carbs to tune out bad resonance that is caused
by the pipe. Sometimes velocity stack length can help here, but a pipe that
has it's resonance timed incorrectly for the range of operation that you
use the most, will cause you hours of unnecessary grief trying to get rid
of the flat spot. (Which won't go away anyway!)
The reason that
I am giving this information is because I want your bike to run great. I
want you to smile every time you go for a ride. Let's face it, if it doesn't
run good, you won't enjoy riding your bike.
On this
website you will find a listing of my available kits and dyno results with
the recommended pipe designs.
Ivan
ivansperformanceproducts.com
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