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 A v a i l a b l e    K i t s    click model to view

Harley Davidson
Twin Cam 88 / 80" Evo
250 Ninja 2008-2011
S3/KH400 1974-1977
H1/KH 500 1972-76
H2 750 1972-1975
ZX6R - ZZR600
ZX636 2005-2006
Z900RS 2018-2024
Z1000 2003-2006
Z1000/SX 2010-2013
Z1000/SX 2014-2019
ZX10R 2004-2005
ZX10R 2006-2007
ZX10R 2008-2010
ZX10R 2011-2015
ZG1400 Concours 2008-2022
ZX-14 2006-2007
ZX-14 2008-2011
ZX-14R 2012-2024
All models
VN1700 Vaquero/Voyager
all models
T200/TC200 1967-69
X6 Hustler 1965-1968
GT380 1972-77
T500 Cobra & Titan 1968-77
Bandit 600
Bandit 1200
Katana 600
Katana 750
2001-2004 GSXR1000
2005-2006 GSXR-1000
2007-2008 GSXR1000
HAYABUSA 2008-2021
M109R 2006-2024
1964-1967 YDS3 250
2009 & up V-MAX
FZ-1 2006-2015
FZ-1 2001-2005
R1 1998-2001
FZ-09 / FJ-09 / MT-09
XSR900 /
Tracer 900
Tracer 900 GT
XVS 950 V-star
XV 950 Bolt
XVS 1300 V-Star
2007 & up
2011-2017 XVS 1300 Stryker
1999 & up XVZ1300T Royal Star Venture
FJR1300 2006-2012
FJR1300 2013 & up
XV1700 Warrior
XV1700 Road Star
2006-2015 XV1900
Stratoliner / Roadliner
2008-2017 XV1900 Raider
2018-2021 XV1900
Star Venture / Eluder


See our new dyno : Click Here

Carb Kits & EFI remapping:

It has always been my goal to get the most performance from what ever bike that I own. Running "good enough" has never been good enough for me. 

Excessive vibration irritates me. So does poor 'closed to part throttle' transition and jerky throttle response
especially when in a corner while leaned over.

Experiencing a lag when the throttle is suddenly snapped open while the revs are up, can also be frustrating when trying to tune your bike for best performance, instant response is expected but not always gotten.

The reason that I got into my own products and EFI programming is that I was tired of always messing around with products that didn't provide the level of refinement that I am capable of delivering. It had proven to be too much wasted time and inevitably, customers were not as happy as they could be.

All of my Carb Kits & EFI tuning programs are thoroughly tested.

By 'thoroughly tested,' I mean:

  • Buy the bike, as opposed to borrowing it.

  • This ensures that there is no limit on the time and R+D that needs to go into the kit or programming.

  • Tune it on my dyno

  • Test it on the road against another bike, to verify the dyno.

  • The dyno is not the last word, the road is!

  • Make sure it runs as good in cold weather as hot weather

  • Make sure it is smooth, on and off of the throttle

  • Modify whichever carb circuit is causing a problem

  • No circuit is safe from me!

  • Do whatever it takes to make it as best as it can be...
  • ...and offer it in one kit.

  • If there are small changes that need to be made to the needle or an addition angle ground on to it, I DO IT! Most of my needles have between 4 and 6 different tapers on them!!
  • I do not release a kit or tuning program for sale unless I am completely satisfied with how it runs at all throttle openings
Most of my Carb Kits are exhaust design specific.

For example:
Yamaha R1
My carb kit for the R1 is designed for a 4-1 designed exhaust for that model, not 4-2-1. The 4-2-1 design causes very strong resonance on that model. This in turn causes very poor operation in the 3-4000 rpm range, right where you spend the most time during normal street riding conditions.

There is no way to use the carbs to tune out bad resonance that is caused by the pipe. Sometimes velocity stack length can help here, but a pipe that has it's resonance timed incorrectly for the range of operation that you use the most, will cause you hours of unnecessary grief trying to get rid of the flat spot. (Which won't go away anyway!)

The reason that I am giving this information is because I want your bike to run great. I want you to smile every time you go for a ride. Let's face it, if it doesn't run good, you won't enjoy riding your bike.

On this website you will find a listing of my available kits and dyno results with the recommended pipe designs.   






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